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Turbocharging the 4G64
Page 3

Installation Overview


This site is not designed to give you a step by step installation process. The basic design is simple. Install all the parts as they would appear on a 4G63 turbo eclipse. Every one of these turbo upgrades will be slightly different, because of choosing different parts to work with. Thus, there is no way to explain everything in great detail.

For those on a time & money crunch, start with the things you can do before actually having to put the turbo on the car. Install the boost gauge. Install the new fuel pump. Install the S-AFC. Install the hi-flow air filter. If you have a new exhaust system, install it. If you are installing a 2G turbo ECU, I would do the ECU swap and throttle body swap before starting the turbo project. That way you can work out all the bugs ahead of time. These things can all be done whenever you feel like it, and help perk up the car's performance in the meantime!

Once the S-AFC (or turbo ECU) is in, you can install the larger injectors. See the tuning section on the next page for info on tuning the car with the larger injectors in. I do want to point out that the injectors used by the 4G64 are HIGH-Impedance injectors. If you put an ohm meter across the two terminals, you'll see 13-16 ohms. Typical 4G63 turbo engine injectors are 2-3 ohms (LOW-Impedance). You can not put the low-impedance injectors in the Spyder without eventually causing damage to the ECU. Either you have to buy high-impedance injectors, or you have to wire in the stock injector resistor pack from a turbo car.

When the day comes to do the actual turbo install, make sure you have lots of time, and an extra vehicle to run to the parts store in. It will be a good idea to have extra metric nuts & bolts around, as well as oil, coolant, and all the things you'll need to get the car running once you are done.

Start by pulling off the stock exhaust manifold & downpipe. Replace the oil pan with the turbo model. Install the intercooler. Install the new spark plugs (gap them to .030", not what the service manual says - you'll be running turbo pressures now!). You'll need to move the fuse box out of the way to make room for the stock intercooler piping, if that is what you are using. Figure out how you'll be attaching the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Using a 2.5" elbow should do the trick. In my case, a modified Starion front mount intercooler was used, so custom intercooler piping was installed.

You may want to build the exhaust manifold, turbo, and o2 housing assembly outside the car, for installation as 1 piece. Make sure to have all the coolant & oil lines attached to the turbo. The throttle body coolant return line can be run to the turbo, and then the outlet of the turbo can be plumbed back into the coolant return.

The oil line (get an RRE Stainless one) gets attached at the filter housing. Back out the LOWER allen head plug (5/16" allen wrench needed). Keep in mind the hole is threaded at an angle. It looks weird when you are threading the 90 degree adaptor it in. The UPPER allen head plug gives you unfiltered oil, the lower one is the one you want - it's straight out of the filter. For pictures, Click HERE.

Connect the turbo wastegate actuator directly to the boost source nipple at the outlet pipe of the turbo. This *should* yield around 7-8psi boost. Install the exhaust downpipe. Connect the intake piping and intercooler piping.

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Last updated 1/1/2004