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List of needed parts for rear disc conversion
2 rear calipers
1 set rear brake pads
2 brake rotors
2 brake caliper hoses (Stainless steel brakes lines highly recommended)
2 emergency brake assemblies/caliper mounting assemblies. Installs as one unit.
Needed bolts/hardware

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Reply Number 10 - "Instructions"
Posted by DeanoD on 08-Feb-01 at 09:18 PM
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Eclipse 2G RS Rear Drum Brake to Rear Disc Conversion Instructions

0. Note from Curt: Some of these procedures you will NOT need - read entire page.
1. Remove center console in car to have access to parking brake cables
2. Remove airbag ecm(4bolts) and disconnect the E-brake cables(2each).
3. Remove cable retaining clamps about 5 inches back, underneath the carpet. There is a retaining block that holds the retaining clamps and that stays in place. The bolt head is 12mm and is difficult to reach. I cut a slit in the carpet (3 inches long) to help me gain access. Lift the carpet with one hand and ratchet with the other. Use a 12mm socket with 3/8 ratchet. When the bolts are out, spread the clamps and remove them. You will have to replace them when the new cables are hooked up. The cables are now free to be pulled out.
4. Raise car on lift or jack one side at a time, using floor jack.
5. Remove rear wheel and drum cover(screw a bolt into it to loosen). Disconnect rear brake line clamp at the knuckle and at the(10mm) b-nut fitting in the forward part of the wheel well. Slide the retaining clip out(pull/tap toward you with a pliers and hammer if necessary). You will not need to reconnect the new brake line to the knuckle assemby. The new line goes directly from the caliper to the b-nut fitting.
6. Remove the hub assembly by taking out the 4 bolts that retain it and then the emergency brake/drum brake assembly will come right off.
7. Remove the three retaining clamps that hold the emergency brake cable to the underneath of the car. Pull the cable out from underneath the car. It might take some extra pulling to get it released from the sealed grommet plug.
8. Install the new parking brake assembly so the caliper mounting bolt holes line up to position the left caliper in the 10 oclock position and the right caliper in the 2 oclock position. The emergency brake cables (from the bottom of the assembly) will also point to the first mounting clamp.
9. Install the hub(4 bolts) in the same position it came off. There is a slightly rounded side (internally) and four flat sides. I am not sure if it makes a big difference, but do it anyway.
10. Push the parking brake cable into the grommet hole(have fun) then connect the cable/mounting clamp from inside the car. I just stuck the cable in the mounting hole, connected the end to the E-brake T-bar assembly and then installed that nasty retaining clamp under the carpet.
11. Install the rest of the clamps for the cable under the car.
12. Install the new rotor, slide the caliper over it and tighten down the two bolts. Make sure your brake hose and bleed screw(8mm) is already installed on the caliper. Connect your brake hose then slide the line retaining clip back in and tap with a hammer until it locks into place. Do not force it or you will bend the clip.
13. This side is done. Now do the other....this one will go much faster...LOL
14. When both sides are done, put in new fluid and bleed brakes. I recommend buying 1 quart of brake fluid and flushing the whole system. The old fluid will look milky and the new fluid is clear. Install a small vacum tube over the bleeder and pump fluid into a can. You can bleed with only one person if you have speedbleeders and do not have to tighten down bleeder between pumps. I do suggest someone else to monitor the fluid coming out and then you will know when the old fluid is completely out.
15. Tighten down bleed screw and clean off any brake fluid on painted surfaces. I suggest using Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 fluid. There are even some high temp Dot 3 fluids available that will not brake the bank. Ford heavy duty dot 3 comes highly recommended. I used Wagner severe duty Dot 5.1.....one quart will take care of an entire car. Remember to fill reservoir before it gets empty and then retighten the cap down before applying pressure on the brake pedal.
16. Put wheels back on and attempt to spin freely. I know the pads will rub slightly, but you are looking for proper freedom of movement from parking brake assembly. If too tight or too loose adjust it at the T-block assembly where the cables are attached in the center console. I did not have to adjust anything when I did this.
17. The parking brake is much harder to engage than with regular drum brakes. It is also an instantanous engagement. What I mean is.....it is not gradual like before and to watch out doing any e-braking slides. You WILL lock up the rear end and spin out......a friend in his GS-T told me this.
18. Install airbag ecm (4 bolts) and center console. If you do not know how to take out your center console, do not attempt to do this brake job....hehehe.
19. Drive car slowly and pull your e-brake handle and make sure it works properly. The feel is totally different and does take more effort to engage it.
20. Seat your brake pads in properly. If you need directions, just ask. If you are using a high coefficient pad(performance street) they tend to squeal with light braking applications. Medium to heavy they do not make any noise. The price we have to pay for killer brakes.
21. If I left anything out or you have any questions, e-mail: Deane Duerkop at duerkop@cei.net Conversion kits are available from Dan Gill at http://www.allmitsubishi.com

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In doing the above procedure (or most of it) on my Spyder, I came to realize a few things.

First off, the whole E-Brake cable thing... Forget it! The cables are the same length, with just slightly different ends. You can make the original cables work without going through all the trouble of tearing your car apart. The drum and disc backing plates are slightly different in the way the cable mounts. On the drum setup, a circlip holds the cable to the backing plate from the inside. On the disc setup, there is a sleeve that the cable end slides into, and a type of "pin" holds it in place. You will not be able to use either method to hold the cable - it will not be held to the backing plate using this procedure. It is held by the cable, and by being snug in the sleeve, but no "clip" or "pin" will hold it. If this bothers you, then by all means replace the cable. If it does not bother you, continue...

Before you install the new back plate, you will need to ream out the hole for the e-brake cable. Our cable end is very slightly larger than the disc model. I used a 3/8" drill bit and drill. The bit is smaller than the hole that is there, but you can just work the drill bit around the hole to ream out the upper part of the sleeve. Now, you can install the backing plate, and the cable as well.

Since there is a sleeve now, it holds the cable out a bit farther than on a normal disc setup. Thus, you will need to adjust the cable from inside the car. Back it off quite a bit, and then use the adjusters in the E-Brake assy to take the slack back up. If you don't do this, the cable is pulling the shoes apart to take up the slack instead of the adjuster in the e-brake assy. I'm guessing that is a bad thing.

Second, make sure you have all the bolts needed to do the job before you start. It will make things a lot easier. That mainly includes the bolts for the caliper to the bracket, and the bracket to the back mounting. As I found out the bolts for the caliper bracket to the mounting bracket are 16.5mm long. Much longer and the bolt will rub on the rotor. The hardware store will likely only have 20mm long bolts in that size (10mm bolt, 1.25 thread pitch). I used a couple of washers to keep it from threading in so far, but you may want to get the factory parts before starting. The factory part number is: MR249200

The bolts that hold the center hub to the suspention are longer on the turbo car than the non-turbo (or at least, the bolts I got with my parts were longer - not sure why). In any case, make sure to re-use your original bolts for the center hub.

Buy yourself a set of stainless braided brake lines while doing this, and a set of speed bleeders. Makes things a lot easier. RRE sells a complete line kit for all 4 wheels for $79. I think the peace of mind is worth it.

Install the brake line on the caliper *FIRST*. It doesn't have a swivel on the caliper side, so when you tighten it, the whole line turns.

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Pictures Section

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This is how it will look once the new backing plate with E-Brake stuff is installed.

Sorry for the fuzzy picture. You can sorta make out the adjuster at the bottom of the shoes. This is what
you must adjust out until you can just slide the disc on over the shoes, then back it off one notch.

You can see on this picture where the E-Brake cable goes into the backing plate. Just beyond
the "hump" in the cable is the sleeve that the cable end slides into. This is what you must ream
out with a drill bit so that the drum cable will fit into the disc backing plate.

Rotor installed over the e-brake shoes.

This picture shows the caliper bracket bolted up to the backing plate.

This picture shows the view from the back side. You can see 3 of the 4 bolts you need to take out to remove
the backing plate and the hub when removing the old drum brakes. You can also see the 2 bolts you should buy for
each side to hold the caliper bracket to the backing plate.